Showing posts with label poultry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poultry. Show all posts

Tuesday, 26 January 2010

despite what I said earlier...
























... on impulse I bought some partridge silkie hatching eggs. Surprisingly all 12 were fertile and 10 hatched (using an Brinsea Octagon 10 incubator). One has curled toes, and had to wear sellotape and cardboard bootees for a couple of days, but is now walking fairly well, with just a little tape to hold the toes in place. 






Sunday, 4 October 2009

More Runner Duck FAQs

Some new queries showing up in my website stats, so I thought I'd update my duck FAQs

What are the ideal ducks to keep in a garden?

By ideal, do you mean ones that cause least damage to the garden? Runner ducks are not good in this respect, they are very active foragers, and will trample plants quite badly. The various kinds of bantam ducks would be a better choice.

Can ducks eat wheat?

Yes, actually wheat is a complete diet for them, though I feed mine on good quality layers pellets, and specialist waterfowl breeders' pellets if breeding. Whatever sort of food you choose, make sure you always provide poultry grit, as birds need this for helping to grind down food in their gizzard.

Is my duck a Runner Duck?

I thought this was a bit daft when I read it, but actually it's a fair question. What makes a duck an "Indian Runner"? Largely it's down to the carriage. This is what the breed standard says:

"Upright, active, nearly perpendicular when at attention, excited or trained for the show pen. When not alarmed, or when on the move, the body may be inclined between 50-80 degrees above the horizontal. The proper carriage creates a straight line from the back of the head to the tip of the tail. Total length (fully extended in a straight line, measured from bill tip to middle toe tips): drake 65-80 cm and duck 60-70 cm."

There are probably quite a lot of cross-bred ducks that have runner parents or other ancestors. Usually these will be heavier in build, but have a much less upright carriage than a true Indian runner.


Monday, 31 August 2009

Duck (Indian Runner) FAQs

I get several hits a day on my personal website asking very basic questions about duck keeping, particularly runners as I occasionally breed them and advertise them on their own pages. I've been meaning to do a FAQ page for ages, and so here goes. (These questions are lifted from my stats records, so it's not my fault some appear particularly dim).

Can I keep ducks?
I would suspect yes, but only if you have the time, space, and a genuine need for the gallons of duck slurry that they produce.

How big are Runner Ducks?
Runners are a medium-sized duck breed, fairly low in weight compared to the heavier breeds but quite a bit bigger than a mallard. Do not be deceived into thinking this makes them easier than larger kinds; Indian runners need more space than any of the other breeds as they are very active and nervous. They are NOT suitable to keep in an ark for instance. 

Do Runner ducks need a pond/water?
ALL ducks need access to bathing water. They need to submerse their heads regularly to bathe their eyes, and their eyes can become easily infected if access to deep water is limited. They also need water to help them preen and keep their plumage in good condition, and also like to wash food items before eating.

For just a pair of ducks, all of this can be accomplished in a large washing up bowl or, better still, a plastic child's sandpit. The side must be low enough to allow the birds to get out easily and not become trapped, and be light enough to tip the water out. Bear in mind that water must be kept fresh at all times, which might mean filling and emptying a couple of times of day, and that all the dirty water has to then go somewhere. If the effluent goes on to bare earth, then after about two days you have a quagmire. Ideally, the bath should be sited on concrete that can be hosed down, angled so that the water runs off to a drain/sump.

My own set up is that I have an 8'x4'x6" custom-made fibre-glass bath on constant drip from a mains hose. It is raised about 9 inches above the soil level, and has a gutter that runs off to a sump hole. This is okay for about 12-18 ducks at the most. It is thoroughly cleaned every week in summer, less often in winter. And yes, it is a lot of work.

Can you keep ducks in a wildlife pond?
Yes, but only if you don't mind the ducks eating all the wildlife. I also have a 20'+ diameter pond which the ducks enjoy, but I rarely let them free range these days as I can't bear the amphibian carnage that ensues within minutes of letting them out. The younger ducks will also dive and catch goldfish.

Can you use algicide in duck ponds?
I don't see why you would need to. A well-managed duck bath in a poultry run should be kept constantly fed with fresh water, and any algal build up washed away regularly. If algae has had time to grow, so might a whole-host of other pathogens. Blanket weed in a garden pond is a sign of too small a water volume / chemical imbalance, and algicides will kill a number of pond plants. However, ducks love blanket weed and will eat it. They may trample and dig up all your decorative pond plants at the same time though.

What plants are poisonous for ducks?
I'm sure all the same one that are poisonous to us, but ducks are actually quite bright and never eat any green matter that is unpalatable to them. I really wouldn't worry about it. The only edible things that have killed my poultry were a batch of mouldy/contaminated wheat I got from a local farmer (which only poisoned the hens; the ducks were too canny to touch it) and a duckling once choked on a large slug.

Are duck eggs poisonous?
No more than any other eggs. All eggs carry a risk of contamination with salmonella. This can due to shell damage (bacteria entering via a small hole) or very occasionally via internal transmission from the duck, visible as a small, grey bacteria mass when the egg is broken open. Obviously dirty eggs will carry a higher risk of contamination if there is any damage to the shell, cuticle or membrane, and duck houses tend to be harder to manage for a number of reasons, which is why duck eggs have acquired the reputation of being more likely to be a problem. However, duck eggs usually have very good shell quality, with tough membranes and thick, waxy exterior cuticle (intended to protect the unborn duckling from damp conditions); they are much tougher than commercial hen eggs in this respect.

Clean-water management can be an issue with ducks, and the combination of stagnant water, bird faeces, rotting green matter and warm weather can cause anaerobic conditions that favoured by botulinum bacteria. However, the ducks are much more likely to succumb and die from botulism themselves before passing the toxins on to humans.

As with all eggs, keep duck eggs clean at all stages, discard really dirty or damaged ones and refrigerate others asap. Don't use any that are found in the run or duck bath, especially if you are not sure when they were actually layed. 

If you find one with a grey spot in the albumen when you open it, don't use it (red blood-spots are fine). If you are feeding eggs of any kind to the young, old or invalids, make sure they are well-cooked.

Why aren't my Runner Ducks laying?
This depends on a lot of things. Time of year, age of birds etc. Given that this question appeared in September, there are two possibilities. If your birds are youngsters, hatched earlier in the spring, chances are they are too young. Only the ones that hatch very early are likely to produce eggs in the following autumn, and then only if they are a particularly prolific egg-laying strain.

If the birds are older, then they will go out of lay through the summer as they need to devote more of their metabolism to growing new feathers during the moult. Some will lay through this period if they are a good strain, though not necessarily every day. Personally I'd prefer them not to lay and have a rest. 

Some strains just aren't very good layers. I used to keep Silver runners which laid far fewer eggs than the black ones. 

Are Runner Ducks noisy?
They can be. Drakes are virtually silent, but females can be a very vocal, and have fine, strong voices capable of conversing with other ducks of their acquaintance half a mile away. A pair may not be too bad but once you have a number of females, they can be quite noisy. Ducks, unlike hens, don't have any 'roosting' instinct and are quite happy quacking all through the night, especially from late winter onwards. 

If you just want ducks as pets and have snotty neighours, then a couple of drakes will get along very well and make virtually no noise.

How to mix young ducks
With caution. Mixing young birds in with adult males should be done very carefully. Runners are particularly bad in this respect and can be very aggressive towards ducklings. I don't mix my youngsters in with the adults until they have grown to be the same size, and even then there can be quite a bit of bullying. Youngsters take the best part of six months to get to this stage (another reason why I don't breed very often) and wouldn't encourage anyone else to do so unless they have the time, space and dedication.

Do Runner ducks moult?
Yes, all birds moult.

Can I use duck eggs for making pancake batter?
No, it's about the one thing that duck eggs aren't good for. Older, watery hens eggs are best for pancakes, and also soufflés. I'm not wildly keen on them scrambled either; hens eggs make lighter, fluffier scrambled eggs. Duck eggs are good fried and poached, as the strong albumen hold it's shape and doesn't spread out. They are also excellent for all kinds of baking.

Do Runner ducks swim?
Runner ducks are just a variety of domestic duck, which are all derived originally form the common mallard; like all waterfowl are adapted for aquatic life and yes, they do swim. 

Unlike some other breeds of domestic duck, they can't fly. This has some benefits (they can't fly out of your backyard into the blue yonder, as my Black East Indies have done) but isn't so good if a predator attacks.

Thursday, 27 August 2009

Brown Eggs

On the topic of eggs, here's an old photo of a mixture of nicely-coloured eggs from cuckoo marans and welbars (dark-egg laying, auto-sexing hybrid between Welsummer and Plymouth rock).
The darkest ones are from the welbar, and also had an unusual, torpedo shape. They were not prolific layers, about every other day for the first couple of years, but the shell quality and colour were very good. They lived to be ten, and all died within a few months of each other of congestive heart failure.

My current 'dark brown' hens are a commercial hybrid, Plymouth Rock crossed wtih Pl/Rock x Copper Maran (black hens shown below). Egg numbers/quality have been good, but the colour has faded from dark copper to ordinary buff colour through the laying season. I will probably order in some more hybrid POL pullets early next year to keep numbers up, and hatch a handful of Welsummers or Copper Black marans if I find I have the time.

Poultry greens, weeds and other poultry stuff





The poultry yard has many uses. As well as a provider of the ton or so of composted manure I need for the soil, the birds also consume a large proportion of the weeds I pull every day through the season. Most of the annual weeds that infest my beds are palatable to the birds:Sow thistle, Fat hen, dandelion, hairy bittercress, rough Hawk's beard. I should make a photographic record, but this site covers most of the edible weeds, albeit listed for tortoises rather than poultry.

Greens should be an important and regular part of laying birds' diet. They improve the yolk colour and improve levels of omega 3; research by Artemis Simopoulos published in the New England Journal of Medicine has shown that eggs from birds fed on a varied died rich in greens (purslane) have a much higher ratio of Omega 3 to 6 than ordinary supermarket eggs (1:3 as opposed to 19:4). They also get bolted lettuces and brassicas, beetroot leaves etc in season.

The run is also proving useful as a support for a 'Jack O Lantern' pumpkin variety, which has started setting and swelling fruit since clambering up the run apace.